'1985 Buffalo' by Jamie Morgan
Created by photographer Jamie Morgan and stylist Ray Petri, the Buffalo look – tough, but also cinematic – was worn by Naomi Campbell, Neneh Cherry and Kate Moss (The Guardian)
Shaped largely through fashion shoots for the Face magazine, the duo created a look that reflected the culture and creativity of London at the time, but gave it the classy and cinematic feel of a Marlon Brando portrait or a shot by Henri Cartier-Bresson. This beautifully lit black-and-white photography of street-cast models and people – including a then-unknown Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Neneh Cherry and Nick Kamen, who later went on to star in Levi’s famous 1985 launderette advert – went on to shape both fashion photography and fashion.
More recently, Morgan has also had newer creatives pay tribute to his and Petri’s work. “I started getting contacted by a lot of students at Central Saint Martins – Campbell Addy, IB Kamara,” he says. “A lot of gay Black kids were like, ‘I see there’s a place for me in the industry.’” Morgan went on to work with Kamara, when he was editor at Dazed, and he has since collaborated with a new generation in London, including Martine Rose. “It’s inspired so many people, and they’ve taken it into their own work and their own life,” he says. “It’s taken a life of its own.” Forty years on from that 1985 moment, it looks like Buffalo is as strong as ever. (The Guardian)
Photography by Jamie Morgan
Book Art Direction by Neville Brody & Brody Associates
Softcover with gatefolds, silver foiling and silver gilt edges
24 x 32cm
136 pages
Edition of 750